In 1959, I was transferred as Ambassador of India to Cambodia. The government at that time had prescribed travel by surface route on transfer from one post to another and so we booked on a Dutch cargo ship, which had some cabins for passengers to travel from Singapore to Phnom Penh, through the Mekong river. This was an unusual route, not much frequented by travellers and it was an experience to sail on the river all the way to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. The river was difficult in many places and pilots were boarding the ship at various points to steer it through dangerous parts.

Cambodia was a different world from Singapore. Phnom Penh was a big town but scarcely a city. It did not even have a good hotel and road links were sparse. There was one good road, built by the Americans from Phnom Penh to the port of Sihanoukville. They say it was there for military reasons. There was no pipe water, very few Cambodian doctors or engineers and no university. The Tong-Le-Sap, a freshwater source, provided dirty drinking water to the population. Indeed, French rule had accomplished little in that colony.

It was a monarchy, but the French had been kingmakers in their day. In 1941, Prince Sihanouk had been chosen as king over the head of his father, Norodom Suramarit. After independence, Sihanouk stepped down and his father became King. It was to him that I presented my credentials in 1958. Sihanouk was Prime Minister and all-in-all. Young and active, a good horseman and a good orador, he was liked by his people. He was particularly friendly to India. When President Rajendra Prasad visited Cambodia, Prince Sihanouk treated him as a father figure and with the utmost respect and humility. The President and his party were flown to Siem Reap for a special view of Ankor Wat, which was the first time lit up with electricity. The official banquet in Phnom Penh was ordered to be completely vegetarian in honour of the President.

Just before my departure on transfer in 1960, the Prince did us the honour of inviting me and my family to spend some days with him and his wife Monique in their residence in Siem Reap. He treated us with the utmost kindness.

I am fortunate to have known his country before the terrible events that were to overcome it not long after we left. Life was quiet and peaceful and the Cambodians were poor but happy. India could not have had a greater friend than Prince Sihanouk in Indo-China at that time.

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